Mrs. Arabella Huntington and her Christmas Entertainments

by Nancy Armitage

Mrs. Arabella Huntington loved Christmas. She was a very generous person and she enjoyed giving gifts. So many things came to a gorgeous head at Christmas time for her. There was grand Gilded Age entertaining, & there was intimate entertaining as well. In Autumntime, the Huntingtons arrived home to America from Europe. Mrs. Huntington wouldn’t miss a Autumn or a Christmas in New York City. Christmas presents bought & wrapped from her favorite antique shops, jewelry stores, or department stores. Her mansion was filled with friends & family as house guests, for 1 or 2 months at a time.

Dutch Bishop St. Nicholas or “Sinterklass” was greatly celebrated in New York City in the 1890’s -1920’s. Many German & Dutch immigrant neighborhoods were growing at the time. The German communities celebrated “Nikolaustag”. Bishop St. Nicholas feast day is December 6 & was remembered by New Yorkers; New York City was called New Amsterdam in those days.

Little children would leave out their shoes or stockings with carrots or hay for Bishop St. Nicholas’s horse. The shoes or Christmas Stockings to be filled with treats like chocolate, oranges, and gifts for good little children. Dutch bakeries would bake Speculaas (spicy shortbread cookie -shaped like Bishop St. Nicholas), St. Nicholas Bread: Cinnamon -Raisin Bread with Royal Icing, Fancy Cakes, Pepernoten, Gingerbread, Chocolates in the shape of Bishop St. Nicholas. In New York City, luncheons & dinners were celebrated in St. Nicholas honor.

From 1884-1924, Mrs. Huntington (Arabella) hosted grand Christmas parties she called “Entertainments”, also “5 o’clock teas”, Christmas Teas, H. E. Huntington’s Hobby Club dinners, & other formal Luncheons & Formal Dinners. In the early years, the Huntingtons enjoyed the Huntington Mansion located at No. 2 57th St. & 5th Ave. NYC for Christmas time, also their Throggs Neck estate called “Huntington Homestead” on the weekends.

By 1900’s, she was mourning the loss of her husband, Collis P. Huntington. She left America on a steam ship to her favorite place, Paris. In 1903, Mrs. Collis P. Huntington (Arabella) was traveling with her son, Archer & his 1st wife, Helen Huntington; they all enjoyed Christmas in Paris. This was unusual for the Huntingtons, but I guess as long as she was with her son during the holidays, she was happy. In 1904, they (Arabella, Archer and Helen) didn’t arrived home to America until January. Later, Mrs. Arabella Huntington owned 2 Paris Mansions.

In 1913, after Arabella Huntington married Henry “Edwards” Huntington, they enjoyed Christmas at No. 2 NYC mansion & at San Marino Ranch. In 1922 & 1923, Henry “Edwards” & Arabella Huntington were at the Huntington Mansion on the San Marino Ranch for Christmas. We know from the Huntington Library guards that the Huntington’s had a fun & festive “Christmas Tea” on Christmas Day. All Huntington employees & all the people that lived on the Ranch were invited.

Christmas Day Tea at the Huntington Mansion, San Marino Ranch, Southern Calif.

So many tea things Mrs. Arabella Huntington could have added to a stunning Christmas Tea Buffet at the Huntington Mansion on the Ranch. The Christmas tea menu could have leaned to a Southern-style tea: maybe Southern Whiskey Balls, Sugar & Spiced Nuts, Jordan Almonds, Louis Sherry’s fancy tins with tea cakes & French Chocolate BonBons or LA See’s Candy Nuts & Chews, Southern Pralines, & Pecan Tart Tassies (miniature tartelettes).

Mrs. Huntington’s Irish cooks could have made Christmas Plum pudding, Irish Trifle with a big red ribbon or a lovely Irish Whiskey Cake wrapped in a thick red ribbon, Irish Fudge, Irish Divinity, Homemade Peanut Brittle or Southern Pralines..

Huntington “Christmas” Spiced Tea Blend: Ceylon & India tea which made a Orange Pekoe tea, or “Christmas Tea Blend” with Darjeeling or Earl Grey base in a bourbon vanilla extract with cinnamon, orange peel, allspice, & cloves

Beverages & Libations: Apricot Cordial, Christmas Champagne Punch, Sparkling Lemonade, Homemade RootBeer

Tea Sandwiches: Virginia Ham & Dijon Mustard on Beaten Biscuit , Roast Beef sandwiches, Chicken Salad Sandwiches , Egg Salad, Cheese Sandwiches, Butter Tea Sandwiches, Lobster Salad

Cream Scones or Buttermilk Scones or Butter Beaten Biscuits with Lemon Curd, Chantilly Cream, Raspberry Jam, San Marino Ranch Loganberry Jam, San Marino Ranch Orange Marmalade

Punch: Champagne Punch, Christmas Wassail, Roman Punch, Victorian Egg Nog in a large silver Punch Bowl, Hot Dutch Sinterklass Cocoa with Marshmallows (for children).

For Christmas sweet treats:

Tarts: Petit Mincemeat tarts, Southern Pecan Tassies ( tarts), Petit Sweet Potato Tart, Pies: Small Individual pies: Mincemeat Pie, Pumpkin Pie,

Candies: Southern Pralines, Peppermint Sticks, Huntington Mansion Honey Bars, NYC Huylers Chocolate BonBons, Jordon Almonds, Peppermint Bonbons, Bishop St. Nicholas Chocolate Silver Mold (Below) , Dutch Sinterklass – Bishop St. Nicholas Chocolate Gold Coins.

Cookies: French Beurre Biscuits, Loone Doones, French Cakes, Dutch Speculaas – Spicy Cookie in the shape of Bishop St. Nicholas or Windmills

Small Cakes: Petit Fours (Small iced cake with royal icing on top), French Yule Log with Chocolate Cake & Chocolate Mousse rolled up inside.

Puddings: San Marino Ranch Royal Pudding, Charlotte Pudding, King of Puddings, Macaroon Ice Cream, Fancy Cakes, San Marino Ranch Cinnamon Swirl Star cookies, Orange Cake, Christmas Plum Pudding,

Document: HEH Coll MS 17/1 Dec 16, 1915 Hobby Club Menu (HEH at 57th Mansion); HEH Coll MS 38/11 uncat (1919 NY house bills), HEH coll. MS 8/9 uncat (SMR papers)

Tea at the Huntington Mansion at the San Marino Ranch, Southern California

There was a recipe found I call: Huntington Mansion Honey Spice Bars (1920’s) iced with Royal Icing. This yummy recipe was made by Mr. & Mrs. H. E. Huntington’s (Arabella), dessert chef, Mrs. Kley. They are so rich & delicious they have to be cut into small bite size pieces. They taste like a brownie & a chocolate truffle!

Huntington Mansion “Honey Spice Bars” (1920’s) at San Marino Ranch, Southern Calif.

They little iced chocolate spiced bars are cut into small petit squares because they are so very rich. They taste in between a rich brownie & a chocolate truffle. A original Huntington Mansion recipe, made by one of their employees, Mrs. Lena Kley. She was a dessert cook of the H. E. Huntington’s, the recipe given to me by her granddaughter, Chris Storey.

2 c. walnuts, chopped

1 pt. honey (Orange blossom)

1 c. sugar

2 t. cloves

2 t. nutmeg

5 c. flour

1/2 lb. (2 c. ) ground [Dutch] cocoa

2 t. cinnamon

2 t. allspice

6 eggs (plus 2 egg whites for the icing)

6 t. baking powder

Mix honey, cocoa, & sugar first. Pour in beaten eggs. Add flour, spices, & baking powder. Grease & bake in slow oven [300@] until dry [38 mins.]. Recipe: Mrs. Lena Kley’s recipe (Mr. & Mrs. H. E. Huntington’s (Arabella)) Mrs. Kley was the Huntington’s dessert chef.

Royal Icing

1 box powdered sugar

2 egg whites

Mix powdered sugar into the 2 beaten egg whites to make a white icing to drizzle on the top of the Honey Spice bars after they have cooled.

Huntington Christmas Dinner (6-8 course dinner menu)

Champagne & Christmas Cocktails or Champagne Punch or Huntington Roman Punch

Appetizers in the Library with passed hors’deuves. Roquefort Cheese Puffs, Caviar & condiments, Christmas Meatballs in a fondue dish

Oysters to start or Oyster Stew

Soup Course: Oyster Stew*, Cream of Asparagus*, Cream of Mushroom Soup*

Chicken Course: Chicken Liver Pate in Aspic with water crackers

Fish Course: California Crab cake with Lemon Sauce or Clams Casino

Entrée Course: Roasted Turkey with Sausage & Chestnut Stuffing with Giblet Gravy, or Roast Beef with au jus, Mashed Potatoes with Gravy, Greens, Hot Dinner rolls (Parkerhouse Rolls)

Vegetable Course: Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Fresh Garden “Petit Pois” (little peas) or French Green Beans with sliced almonds or bacon and onions,

Cranberry relish: Cranberries shredded with granny smith apples, walnut or pecans, mandarin oranges with juice, & ginger grated

Game Course: Duck a la Orange (nod to HEH’s orange groves)

Salad course: Christmas Waldorf Salad or Orange & Avocado Salad (SMR) with Champagne Vinaigrette

Christmas Desserts : Christmas Plum Pudding, Christmas Cake & See’s or NYC Huylers chocolate candy, Irish Christmas trifle, Southern Pralines, Virginia Large Peanuts,

* means recipes below

Huntington Cream of Asparagus Soup

Historical note: In the Huntington’s New York “No. 2” Mansion archives, I found many gourmet grocery invoices. In these invoices, was listed “Cream of Asparagus Soup”. For her entertainments, Mrs. Arabella Huntington was not above buying from gourmet markets. The Huntington’s Head Housekeeper (No 2), Miss Kate M. Smith or her head cook, Hilma Sjogen (1900’s) could buy soups or fancy desserts from gourmet NYC markets & fancy bakeries. This was also a kind gesture of Mrs. Huntington’s to not tax her kitchen staff with more things to do. Document: HEH Collection MS 38/11 uncat (New York House papers) Huntington Library San Marino, CA

3 c. Asparagus pulp

2 Chicken bouillon cube

2 c. Boiling water

2 c. Thin white sauce or Roux or creme fraiche or sour cream

Salt & Pepper

Cayenne pepper or White pepper

1/2 c. or more Heavy cream

Steamed asparagus tips or minced baby chives (as garnish)

Steam asparagus, save some for garnish. Make pulp of asparagus with a hand blender. add white sauce or sour cream or crème fraiche. Season lightly with salt & pepper. Transfer into a soup bowls with lids with 2 handles. Garnish with steamed asparagus tips or baby minced chives. Make 7 cups. Recipe: Nancy Armitage

Huntington Historical Note: Other head cooks at No. 2 NYC, that I found the payroll lists were: Louise Hayden (1900), Delia McQuire (1916) Annie Seefield (1916) Esther Fallgren (1916-1917). There does seem like there was a turn over of cooks in 1916. In 1916, Mr. & Mrs. H.E. Huntington (Arabella), spent a lot of the year at the San Marino Ranch. It must have been odd for the kitchen not to have the Huntingtons at the No. 2 Mansion.

Lena Nyderk, the Huntington’s No. 2 cook (1921). Lena moved from No. 2 Huntington Mansion to being a traveling servant – & cook for Mr. & Mrs. H. E. Huntington (Arabella). I located her on the private passenger train called “San Marino I”. There was a private train Dining-room table for 12 guests. Annie Seefield in 1916 left the kitchen staff but I found her 1917 (she was still with the Huntingtons but she moved to the house staff. Often, the Huntington servants didn’t quit but might move to another job in the mansion or to another Huntington mansion to Chateau de Beauregard in France or San Marino Ranch in California.

Christmas Oyster Soup (1907)

This super simple soup was written in 1907, “The Franco-American Cookery Book or, How to live well & wisely every day”. I love the title of this cookbook. I found this rare book at the Huntington Library in San Marino, CA in my research. Often, the Huntingtons had this Christmas Oyster Soup on the menu, so the menu would not have started with Oysters & Mignonette Sauce.

“Oyster Soup. — Put a little water, salt, nutmeg, pepper, and small bits of butter in a saucepan; add 2 qts. of fresh-opened medium oysters; cover, put on a brisk fire, & stir occasionally until boiling; then stir again, return to the fire & boil a moment longer so that the oysters may be evenly cooked; set by the fire, skim, add four ounces of butter in small bits, half a pint of boiled milk, a pint of white sauce [or roux], and some bruised butter–crackers [Oyster small small crackers or Ritz crackers]; pour into a soup- tureen, & serve with more crackers on a plate. Book: The Franco-American Cookery Book (1907)

St. Nicholas Day Mushroom Soup (December 6th)

This is a fabulous & very warming soup, we first tasted in Amsterdam. We went to Holland during the “Sinterklass season” (End of November to early December) & had many sightings of Bishop St. Nicholas all over the city. I walked to a delightful Dutch café that had candelabras lite right on the window sills, so inviting in the bitter cold & wind. The waiter welcomed me in & suggested the hot Mushroom Soup & a Monsieur hot French sandwich (grilled ham & cheese sandwich) & Dutch beer. So I came home to America & tried to figure out how they made it. This soup could be eaten any time in the Christmas season. The Huntingtons had a abundance of mushrooms growing on their California: San Marino Ranch.

1 pkg. cut Paris mushrooms, saute

1 pkg. white mushrooms, saute

1 pkg. Portabella mushrooms, saute

butter & olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

3 c. water

2 T. sour cream

2 T. boursin cheese

splash of brandy or Amontilla sherry

splash of half & half

1 cube chicken broth

pinch mixed peppercorns

several shakes white pepper

Sauté all chopped mushrooms on high in butter & olive oil. Add brandy or sherry & garlic. Add half & half with water & chicken broth. Add sour cream, the boursin cheese, & mixed peppercorns. Using a Braun hand blender, blend until fine mushrooms. Serve in small soup bowls with lids or small ramekins , sprinkle baby chives. Serve with fresh baguette of French bread & Rombauer chardonnay! Recipe by Nancy Armitage

Dutch Sinterklass “Juliana Soup” (Dec. 6th )

I went to the Dutch Market in Bellflower, CA to gather some food for a Bishop St. Nicholas party. I found the Dutch “speculaas” spicy cookies, chocolate letters, chocolate gold coins, & a package of Juliana Soup. Juliana Soup mix is dehydrated veggies (carrots, onions, tomatoes, celery, parsley, parsnips, sweet peppers, & leeks. It was a delicious soup on St. Nicholas day (Dec. 6th). But it can be eaten anytime during the Christmas season. The turkey can be substituted with meatballs, also.

1/2 pkg. (1 c.) Dutch Juliana Soup (Knoor makes a similar package)

2 Knoor Chicken bouillon cubes

1 qts. water

5 garlic cloves

1 lb. Jimmy Dean Sage Sausage, sauté & browned

1 c. Thanksgiving turkey meat, cubed

dash of cayenne pepper

Saute sausage meat until brown. In a medium stock pot, add water, veggies & garlic. Turn on high to make the water boil & then simmer for 40 mins. to hydrate the veggies. Add sausage & turkey with the garlic. Serve hot with toasted French garlic bread.