The Huntington’s Champagne and Canapes

By Nancy Armitage

The wonderful world of Canapes, just the word “Canapes” brings elegance to one’s entertaining. Canapes can be served in a variety of different ways. Mrs. Arabella Huntington as a hostess could serve these lovely delights in the Drawing-Room, large Library, or the Conservatory before a dinner party. The canapes could be served at a afternoon tea (1920’s) the Victorians once called it “5 o’clock tea”, or a evening “Tea-Reception”. We are informed by the Huntington’s Head Butler, Alfonso Gomez, that the Huntingtons received their guests in the Large Library in their mansion on the San Marino Ranch…. I think it is highly-likely the Huntingtons would have served elegant “Canapes & Champagne” in the Large-Library, also.

In the Victorian days, canapes were also served at a multi-course dinner. Usually, as the 3rd course was sometimes called the “Hors d’oeuvre Course” on menus (after the Oysters & Soup courses). Sometimes, called “Amuse-Bouchee” in French meaning: “to amuse the mouth” or a little surprise or a special treat from the chef. A “Amuse-Bouchee” is a bit of a tease for the dinner quests or a excitement of coming culinary attractions.

Nowadays, we often see “Amuse” as the 1st course of a special 4-course French “Prix Fix” dinner in a fine dining restaurant. This 4-course dinner starts with the Amuse, then Soup or Seafood, then Entrée & a wonderful French dessert. Often, these special dinners are offered on special occasions, like St. Valentines Day, Christmas, or New Year’s Eve. In France, we were served a Quiche au Roquefort (Petit Roquefort tart) as a “amuse bouche” & it was amazing! I only have the recipe in French, it was the cream mixture of: Roquefort cheese, crème fraiche, cream cheese, butter, eggs, Dijon mustard, cayenne pepper in a buttery pie crust. Mrs. Arabella Huntington often had Roquefort listed on her grocery invoices. In one of Mr. H.E. Huntington’s cookbook (SMR) by Sunkist (1916), one of the recipe is a “Roquefort Canape”.

The Huntingtons (Arabella) adored canapes; they were often served at the Huntington Mansions. In the 1920’s, there were different canapes like “Canape Lorenzo” (spicy crabmeat) in San Francisco, “Roquefort Puffs” or “Roquefort Canapes”, (with French blue cheese) NYC & SMR, “Sardine Toast Canapes” (No. 2 – from Park & Tilford gourmet market), Black Olive , Nut, & Cheese Canapes (SMR), & Caviar Canapes (Caviar on Toast). Some of these lovely canape nibbles might have had minced herbs sprinkled on top, like minced baby chives, basil, French Tarragon, or dill.

In the 1920’s, Caviar was served in crystal bowl (set over ice) with condiments were the rage at the time. A elegant fancy caviar presentation on a silver platter, served on a cracker usually the caviar displayed in a raised bowl over ice in the middle of the platter. Then the caviar is surrounded by little bowls of minced hard-cooked egg, minced red onion, crème fraiche or sour cream, & minced baby chives. Served with a lovely glass of French champagne. There was a multitude of caviar jars stored in the pantry at the Huntington Mansion at the San Marino Ranch.

In the 1912 Blue & Gold Cookbook from Oakland, California (in HEH Collection of cookbooks) lists a “Roquefort Heart Mold or Bummers’ Custard”, which can be hot or cold “Roquefort Canape“. This blended mixture is made with Roquefort cheese, Worcestershire sauce, olive oil, cognac, with cayenne pepper on a “toast point”.

For St. Valentine’s Day or Christmas or New Year’s Eve. Also, could be served was a romantic Roquefort cheese pate heart: the cheese mixture (goat cheese & cream cheese) is spooned into a piece of cheesecloth which is inside of small heart mold pan. Fold the cheesecloth over & press cheese down. Cover with more cheesecloth & refrigerate for 1-2-hours. Unmold heart-shaped cheese mold on a plate, sprinkle some fresh herbs or chopped pimentos & serve with crackers & a small silver butter knife.

In 1921, The American Bank Building of Los Angeles published a cookbook called “The Homemaker”. Often, Mr. Henry E. Huntington’s companies would advertise in such Los Angeles cookbooks. It lists “Black Olive & Nut Canapes” as a popular canape in America at the time. These canapes are made with cream cheese [or goat cheese or both] with chopped California black olives, nuts (pecans), drizzle of heavy cream, & paprika.

A silver tray of assorted canapes was usually served to the Huntingtons guests by the footmen or the Huntington’s Butler, Alfonso Gomez & Head Butler, Angus McGillvary. The silver tray (the Huntington’s were partial to Gorham silver & Sheffield Silver- pattern: “George III”) would be lined with a fancy round paper doily. The silver tray was lined with lovely assorted canapes, herbs (parsley & rosemary to decorated the tray and make it look pretty. The Butler or footmen would offer a cocktail napkins to each guest. The canapes would be small (the size of a silver dollar) so a guest could easily pop it in their mouth.

Canape Lorenzo (1890’s) Long Island, NY & San Francisco. CA

Crabmeat sandwiches on fresh sourdough bread are San Francisco favorites. This “Crabmeat Puff” called “Canape Lorenzo” was often seen on the menus of Hotel St. Francis & the Palace Hotel in San Francisco. The Huntington Family frequented these hotels for luncheons, teas, & dinners. Also, “At-Home tea” receptions; also served for the hotel guests the “At-Home day” was on Mondays. In fact, while Collis & Arabella Huntington were renovating their Nob Hill mansion at 1020 California Street, they lived at the Palace Hotel for many months. The original recipe from Hotel St. Francis used heavy cream, but I used mayonnaise. I also omitted the flour & the butter.

2 shallots, minced fine or 1/2 onion, minced fine

2 cans Crown Prince crabmeat

baby chives, minced with a scissor

dash of white pepper

dash of cayenne pepper

1/2 c. mayonnaise, heavy cream or béchamel sauce, or creme friache

sprinkle of parmesan cheese

12 slices white bread, 4 (1 1/2 “) rounds on each sliced with round cookie cutter

Make 48 small round of bread with a 1 1/2 ” cookie cutter. Set aside on a cookie sheet. In a bowl, add all ingredients except for the bread, mix well. With a small knife or baby spoon, place a good dollop of the crab mixture on the bread, spread to the edge. Sprinkle with parmesan, if you like. Bake 450 for 15 minutes until bottom of bread is golden brown & the top is golden & bubbly. Place on a doily- lined silver tray. Serve hot with paper cocktail napkins.

Cheese Puff Canape (San Marino, CA)

A condensed variation of the canape above…these ingredients are always in the kitchen. There is a very complicated recipe for Cheese Puffs with egg whites & dunking the bread cubes in the egg whites, etc….When entertaining its important to have some items on your menu that are simple. You can make this mixture the night before the party & store in a container before you pop these puffs into the oven. They only take 15 minutes to make. For a special party for my son, Taylor, I added 1 t. pesto to this cheese puff & they were delightful. To make “Roquefort Puffs” add a couple tablespoon of Roquefort cheese to the mix.

1/2 c. mayonnaise

1/2 onion, minced fine

1/2 c. parmesan cheese

12 slices of white bread with 4 (1 1/2″) rounds, cut out with small round cookie cutter (48 bread rounds). In a bowl, add mayo, onion, & cheese. Mix. With a small canape knife or baby spoon, spread a generous dollop of cheese mixture on each bread round. Place on cookie sheet. Bake 450 for 15 minutes until bottom of bread is golden brown & the top of canape is golden & bubbly. With a spatula, place cheese puffs on a doily-lined silver tray. Serve hot with cocktail napkins. Recipe by Nancy Armitage

Sardine Canapes

Sardine Canapes were very popular nibble in the 1920’s. But not so popular in 2023. This recipe comes from the Algonquin Hotel in New York City. The Gilded Age chef, Joseph Tirloni, doesn’t really give us the exact ingredients to make these canapes. Sardines were a staple in the pantries of all of the Huntington Mansions.

1 small onion or shallots, minced

1/2 cubes sweet butter [or cream cheese or both]

1 can sardines, drained & remove bones [or smoked oysters, drained] and mince

Lea & Perrin Worcestershire sauce

[lime or lemon juice]

salt & pepper

Sprinkle on top: chives, parsley or dill

In a bowl, add onion or shallots with butter or cream cheese, sardines, Worcestershire, lemon or lime, salt & pepper. Mash together & place in refrigerator for a couple of hours. Spread on crackers, celery stick, or stuffing for baby tomatoes. Adapted Recipe: Nancy Armitage

If using smoked oyster: spread butter/cream cheese mixture on bread round or cracker & place smoked oyster on the top, sprinkle with baby chives.

Sardine Butter for Canapes or Sandwiches (1921)

This recipe is from The Homemaker Cookbook by the American Bank Building, Los Angeles, CA (1921). I found this cookbook in Mr. Huntington HEH Collection of cookbooks.

3 large sardines, skin & rub

2 T. sweet butter (unsalted)

1 t. lemon juice

1 t. parsley, minced fine

dash cayenne pepper

Mix thoroughly then spread on small bread rounds or on bread to make tea sandwiches.

Nancy’s “Ready-Mix” Nibble (Black Olive, Nut, & Cheese California Canape)

I learned this ready mix from a wonderful Los Angeles hostess. It is easy & fast. it was be eaten hot or cold.

Black olive & nut canape, mixed with cheese – a great nibble that was very popular in the 1920’s. The binder for this canape is mayonnaise or cream cheese or both. Goat cheese would give it a extra zest of flavor. I have used this recipe for years, which is a variation of “Black Olive & Nut Canape” I found in old 1920 Cookbooks. All the ingredients are always in my refrigerator or the pantry. If it is summer time & very hot outside, I don’t use the mayonnaise, I use cream cheese or goat cheese or both. One could also make lovely tea sandwiches from this mixture, too.

1/2 c. mayonnaise

1/2 c. cream cheese (or goat cheese)

1 c. shredded California Monterey Jack cheese

1 c. shredded sharp cheddar cheese

1/2 c. black olives

1/2 c. Ortego green chilis

1/2 c. minced toasted walnuts or pecans

In a bowl, mix all ingredients. Make this cheese mixture & it can be stored in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks. Serve cold on crackers or make bread round with cookie round. Spread ready-mix on bread round & place on cookie sheet. Bake 450 for 15 mins. Recipe by Nancy Armitage

Petit Roquefort Cheese Balls

These cheese balls all have the same cheese mixture, but they have different toppings (minced chives, minced parsley, macadamia nuts, or toasted sunflower seeds). Recipe adapted from Joy of Cooking Cookbook by Rombauer (1931).

Cheese Mixture:

1/4 lb. Roquefort cheese

[or goat cheese]

3 t. soft butter [unsalted]

1 t. Worcestershire sauce

1 t. brandy (French Brandy)

dash paprika [Smoked paprika would give them a totally different flavor]

Mash the cheese into the butter and/or the goat cheese. Add sauce, French brandy, & paprika. Roll cheese mixture into petit small balls then roll into herbs or nuts. Place on a doily-lined plate with a frilly toothpick inserted. Place the plate on a silver tray & have a small jigger (for the used toothpicks) on the silver tray, for people to put the toothpick in, when they are finished popping the cheese ball in their mouth. Serve with cocktail napkins.

Documents:

From Document: HEH Collection HEH 38/11 (HEH’s New York Mansion bills) at the Huntington Library; Gourmet foods from Park & Tilfords NYC: Tea party foods, oatmeal cookies, Social tea cookies, tea & coffee, cream scones with orange marmalade, Roquefort cheese, & McLarens Sharp cheddar & McLarens Roquefort spread from Canada.

The Homemaker Cookbook by the American Bank Building, Los Angeles, CA (1921)

Blue & Gold Cookbook (1912) from Oakland, California (in HEH Collection of cookbooks)

Recipe adapted from Joy of Cooking Cookbook by Rombauer 1931