by Nancy Armitage
In the Gilded Age, high society had elaborate multi-course dinners, from 6 -16 courses. These extravagant dinners could have lasted for over 2 hours. Fancy Punch or Champagne Punch was usually served in the middle of these large banquet dinners; served after the Entrée Course & before the Game Course. In this little pause or “Punch Course”, the ladies & gentlemen dinner guests could get up & stretch their legs. Maybe excuse themselves or have a smoke on the Huntington’s Terrace or in the Billiards’ Room through the Huntington’s Rose Garden. At this time, the guests were given a pause at this elegant dinner, as they served the Punch Course. The punch may have been served hot or cold depending on the weather in Southern California. Like Roman Punch, Champagne Punch, or Wassail (Spiced Wine) at Christmas time. Or sometimes, a sorbet was served instead of punch at these Huntington events: like Champagne Sorbet or Sorbet Menthe which at the time were Frozen Punches. I have seen both of these sorbets on Huntington’s hosted menus (Southern Pacific Co. Dinner banquets) located at the C.P. & Arabella Huntington San Francisco mansion on Nob Hill). If the entertainment was a fancy dress ball (costume party), the punch would be the refreshment for the evening & would be replenished when needed by the Huntington’s footmen & butlers.
Festive punch historically stems from royal occasions (in England & France). The Punch Course at an elaborate Medieval or Victorian banquet celebrated a special event. It could have been a victory at war, a knighthood, Christmas, or a wedding. The guests were given cups of punch to make a toast in the middle or the end of the grand Royal feast. In England, the “Loving Cup” was shared by knights that bowed to each other before drinking it. The “Loving Cup” was drunk out of a pewter or sterling silver goblet with 2 handles. Eventually, the Loving Cup drink became a wedding feast tradition.
In England, Fancy Punch named after royalty were popular. “Victoria Punch” was fashionable in 1918; named after Queen Victoria of England. In Fanny Farmer’s The Boston Cooking School Cookbook, Victoria Punch was a combination of angelica wine, gin, with lemon & orange juices, this mixture was frozen. “Prince of Wales Punch” was a mixture of raspberry juice, sauterne, & brandy.
So what festive punch did the Huntington’s drink? Between the 1880’s & the 1920’s. Roman Punch was listed most often on Huntington’s hosted dinners or Southern Pacific Company banquet menus. These banquet dinners were hosted by the president of the company (which was Collis P. Huntington at his home on Nob Hill in San Francisco, shared with Arabella.) Sometimes, these grand dinners were hosted at the Palace Hotel, San Francisco, CA. It was recorded that Roman Punch was served at the Huntington mansions in New York City & San Francisco, California.
Roman Punch & Cardinal Punch were both served in hotels like the Palace Hotel in San Francisco at their California Street Mansion SF. Also, at the Henry E. Huntington( Arabella’s) private clubs like the Jonathan Club & California Club both in downtown Los Angeles, CA. All these locations were where the Huntington’s hosted private parties, sometimes with 200 or more quests. Champagne Punch was a favorite libation of Arabella & H. E. “Edwards” Huntington. It was recorded as being served on Christmas Day; in 1905 to H. E. Huntington on his train trip from California to NYC. This was ordered by Mrs. Arabella D. Huntington on her private railroad cars named, “Oneonta I & Oneonta II”, H. E. Huntington was traveling east on the train to New York City.
Roman Punch, the first & original frozen punch, came from Rome, Italy; then spread throughout Europe & then to America. In America, I found historically, that the recipe for Roman Punch changed over the years. Some recipes are authentic to the original recipe with a white meringue floating on the top, some were not. The reason for this was probably because Roman Punch could be served hot or cold. Published in the 1887, the White House Cookbook (I found in H. E. Huntington’s rare book collection at the Huntington Library) is described as followed: “Roman Punch #2″ is a combination of lemonade , extract of lemon, brandy, & rum. In 1917, Thomas Bullock, wrote in his cocktail book, The Ideal Bartender, his “Punch a la Romaine“, was made the authentic way with champagne & rum with bitters, flavored with oranges, lemons, & powdered sugar. Then, he frothed up the punch with beaten egg whites (making the meringue). Fast forward to a contemporary “Roman Punch”, the meringue could be made by adding several tablespoons of lime or orange sherbet. Super easy & has the same effect. Information: HEH Rare Books at Huntington Library, San Marino, CA
Liqueurs & After-dinner drinks at the Huntington Mansion No. 2 57th St NYC
There were many different after-dinner liqueurs & tea cordials listed on invoices of Mr. & Mrs. H. E. & Arabella Huntington’s residences. Typically, at their “At-Home” tea receptions, In their New York mansion at #2 East 57th St. and 5th Ave. They might have served Sherry, Creme de Menthe, or Champagne Punch. A lovely digestive for a After-dinner libation is Creme de menthe mixed with Ginger ale or mineral water. It is recorded that the Huntington’s drank Apricot Cordial, Benedictine, French Grand Marnier (orange-flavored brandied liqueur), Amaretto (almond liqueur) & Kirsch or Kirschwasser (a German brandy made with cherries).
H.E. “Edwards” Huntington courts Mrs. Collis Huntington, (Arabella) a widow of 11 yrs.
When H. E. “Edwards” Huntington was courting Mrs. Arabella “Belle” D. Huntington in the early 1900’s. He would bring or send her great gifts. They were delivered to her mansion at No. 2 East 57th St. her New York City address. In 1911-1912, he ordered for “delivery” to her mansion: Apricot Cordial, French Chocolate Bons-bons (a pretty boxes) from Louis Sherrys – NYC, & choice expensive pieces of Gorham sterling silver, & great bouquets of flowers & stunning fragrant roses from his favorite florist. The HEH invoices & ledgers often said “G & D” which meant: gift-wrapped & delivered. I think Arabella was very pleased, I think she liked surprises like that. She was elated when she would received a letter in the mail, especially from her son, Archer Huntington. She would read the letter & immediately sit at her writing desk & answer the person right back. Or she would dictate a letter to her social secretary, Miss Carrie M. Campbell. She had a regular weekly or bi-weekly correspondence with her son, Archer M. Huntington. At the beginning of her letters, Belle, always mentioned she received his letter (including the date of Archer’s letter) & went on answering questions he asked & talking about her travels & adventures.
These Huntington gourmet food & liquor invoices illustrates to me that the Huntingtons did entertain & drink after-dinner cordials or liqueurs. Most likely, while listening to a small concert or a poetry reading or playing bridge. The Huntington’s Butler, Mr. Angus McGillivary or Mr. Alfonso Gomez, would have a bar cart or table set up (below) in the Large Drawing-Room (SMR) with a variety of cordials or liqueurs. Maybe a bon-bon bowl filled with candies, Jordan almonds, Virginia peanuts or nuts, or chocolate bon-bons (chocolate truffle), also.
After a elaborate Huntington Dinner, the Huntingtons: “Belle & Edwards” (HEH) would invite their guests to the Large Drawing-Room for entertainment, music, or card playing usually bridge. The Huntington’s footmen would ask their guests – what they would like to drink & pour a cordial into small cordial glasses & serve them. Mrs. Arabella Huntington had a stunning Italian/Venetian glass cordial set with a large bottle & 10 small cordial glasses. Most likely, sitting on a doily lined round silver butler’s tray on some kind of bar cart (above). Probably with sine bowls of Mixed Nuts, Jordan Almonds, or French Bon-Bons next to the tray.
At the Huntington’s San Marino Ranch, these cordials like Curacao (orange liqueur) or Rum were for after dinner liqueurs. But they were also flavorful ingredients to enhance the Huntington’s tea cakes. For “Sundays at the Ranch” entertainments, the dessert cook could have made: Lemon Cake, Orange Tea Cakes, Rum Cake, Chocolate Rum Cake or Fruit Chantilly, or Fruit Compotes.
At the San Marino Ranch, the Huntington’s guests enjoyed the fruits of Mr. H. E. Huntington’s extensive wine cellar(s). There was a gigantic wine cellar in the basement of the mansion, with whole cement block rooms dividing the different wines: Chabis, Claret, Burgundy, Champagne, etc. Mr. Huntington (HEH) had another wine cellar in the basement, in the “Guest cottage” under the Main Hall. For “after-dinner” libations the Huntingtons & guests enjoyed Brandy, Port, Sherry, & Cognac. It should be noted, that Mr. H.E. Huntington didn’t drink a lot. Maybe, Mr. Huntington & his gentlemen friends walked out through the rose garden to his Billiards-Room/Bowling Alley Building for a smoke of a cigar & a glass of cognac or brandy.
They also served non-alcoholic punches, probably to the Huntington’s grandchildren & young invited friends. Once in the 1920’s, Mr. H. E. Huntington had a delightful lunch with Mr. & Mrs. Rockefeller & their 3 young sons. Cold drinks or punches could have been served like: Mrs. Leslie Huntington’s Minted Sparkling Lemonade, Ginger Ale Punch with Hawaiian Punch Syrup, Homemade Root Beer & Homemade Ranch Lemonade with Soda water or Ranch Orangeade.
San Marino Ranch “Orange Blossom – Honey Lemonade”
On a 1921 San Marino Ranch map, I noticed they had a “Apiary” (Honey Bees). These little honey bees would have helped pollinate Mr. H. E. Huntington’s ranch orange trees. The “Apiary” is shown west of the Patton estate, just below Wilson Lake (which is now “Lacy Park” in San Marino, CA.) Close to what is now Huntington Drive in San Marino, CA. In Mr. William Hertrich’s book, “Personal Recollections of Huntington Botanical Gardens”, he tells us that they ( Mr. Huntington and Hertrich) found pounds & pounds of orange blossom honey dripping down the side of a San Marino Ranch water tower. That the ranch men helped supply all the people that lived on the ranch, jars of Orange Blossom Honey for 2 whole years. The Huntingtons also packed jars of San Marino Ranch honey & San Marino Ranch Orange Marmalade, with oranges, lemons, and avocados as treasured gifts from the ranch. These treasures were packed lovingly in wooden crates with wood straw & the fruit wrapped in tissue paper. This sweet gifts traveled in the Huntington’s private railroad cars, “San Marino I” & “San Marino II” (from SMR to NYC) as Huntington Christmas presents. What a treat that would have been to receive a jar of SMR honey!!
1/2 c.-3/4 c. fresh lemon juice
1 c. orange blossom honey
1 c. hot water
8 c. cold fizzy Selzer or soda water
In a large pitcher, add hot water, lemon juice, & honey. Before the party, add the cold Selzer or soda water for the fizz. Serve iced cold with lots of ice & fresh mint leaves. Recipe: Nancy Armitage
List of Huntington liqueurs at No. 2 NYC
At the Huntington’s Mansion at No. 2 57th St. in NYC: the Huntingtons would have entertained in several of their grand rooms. There was a large Reception-Room for “At-Homes”teas or “5 o’clock tea parties” or Mrs. Huntington liked her intimate Drawing-Room also called the White Salon [Angel] or Louis XVI Drawing-Room. She could have enjoyed a cordial or two or a cup of tea, & chocolates, & treats. A list of libations shows some of the Huntington’s entertaining style. In March & September of 1919, libations were delivered to the Huntington household on 57th Street from Acker, Merrall & Condit. The invoice was signed & initialed by the Huntington’s head butler, Mr. Angus McGillvary. The libations ordered for the Huntington’s entertainment were Jamaican Rum, Sas Brandy, Vernon Gin, & Brandied Peaches. These ingredients could have been used in festive Huntington punch like Champagne Punch, Roman Punch, or the wedding “Loving Cup“.
Other ingredients purchased for the Huntingtons punches were ginger ale, sarsaparilla (what is in rootbeer), & carbonated waters. The Huntington’s 2nd Butler-valet, Alfonso Gomez, stated that Mr. H. E. Huntington especially liked Gingerale. The Huntington household also ordered mineral waters such as Appollaris water, White Rock, & Still Poland Waters. Mineral Waters at the time were considered a health drink. This healthful mineral was also used in France, as a cure for hangovers.
Liqueurs & After-dinner drinks at the Huntington’s Chateau Beauregard near Paris:
At the H. E. Huntington’s Chateau Beauregard by Versailles & Paris in France. “Edwards & Belle” Huntington leased the Chateau Beauregard from 1913-1923. They had many liquors & liqueurs listed on the Chateau Beauregard’s invoices. In 1914, Felix Potin & J. Crosson merchants in Paris & St. Cloud, Delivered to “Monsieur Huntington”: Curacao (orange liqueur) , Creme de Menthe (mint liqueur), Dry Gin, 140 Cognac, Rudesheimer, Cliquot Dry Champagne with Champagne goblets, Montrachet (white burgundy wine), Vichy Mineral water, & Bitters Angostura. Other Chateau Beauregard ” daily expenditures” often listed: Marsala wine, St. Julian (Bordeaux wine) & Eau de Javel. These libations could have been used for drinking enjoyment at “At-Homes” tea gatherings, formal Chateau dinners. Or their French chef might have added wine & spirits to their delicious French recipes like Boeuf bourguignon (Beef Burgundy) or Bouillabaisse (Provencal Seafood Stew). The Huntingtons could have also used some of the ingredients for festive Chateau punches like “French Punch” or “Parisian Punch” or Champagne Punch.
Mrs. Arabella Huntington crystal glass collection
At the Huntington Mansion at the San Marino Ranch, Mrs. Huntington had a massive collection of crystal stemware. To enhance the Huntington libation experience, they had many kinds of stemware for entertainments. The Huntingtons collected Tiffany & Co. cut-glass, gold-decorated glassware, & etched glassware. In the Huntington crystal collection, many kinds of glasses were used for multi-course dinners. There was punch & lemonade glasses, Claret or Bordeaux red wine glasses, Hock (sweet Rhine wine) white wine (Chabis) glasses, Champagne glasses, Sherry glasses, & Cocktail or lemonade glasses, too.
Royal Dinner at the San Marino Ranch
In 1913, Mr. & Mrs. H. E. Huntington (Edwards & Belle) on their honeymoon, purchased a large set of Venetian etched-colored glasses. They were from Salvanti crystal glass company while visiting Venice, Italy. In 1925, Mr. Huntington also purchased a large collection of tall Baccarat crystal stemware. This was probably planning for his grand “Royal Dinner”. It was scheduled on Friday, July 23, 1926, Mr. H.E. Huntington sadly had to enjoy this event without his Belle, she had died in Sept of 1924. So, Mr. Henry E. Huntington & his sister, Carrie Huntington Holliday hosted a grand Royal Dinner at the San Marino Ranch. There was 24 royal dinner guests in their fanciest dress & men in long tails, honoring The Crown Prince Adolphus & Princess Louise of Sweden. Mr. Huntington probably had a 6-8 course dinner feast. After dinner, on a warm summer evening, the guests got to be driven off in Mr. Huntington limousines to the Hollywood Bowl for a concert afterward.
I have seen the tablescape for this amazing “Royal Dinner” in Hertrich’s book. It was a black & white photograph, a damask white (maybe pink) table cloth. They had 4 crystal glasses at each guest “Cover” or place setting. So Mr. Huntington went for simplicity. It looked like the glasses might have been for water, white wine, red wine, & champagne. If they had after-dinner drinks & a port wine with cheese, sweet ranch berries, ranch nuts, bon-bons, & candies; they might have served them in the Large-Drawing Room.
The Huntington’s Multi-Course Gilded Age Dinner menus:
Usually at the Huntington’s Gilded Age dinner parties they were elegant & massive amounts of food. I have seen several Huntington dinner menus that had up to 16 courses (1880-1890’s). If they served 8-10 dinner courses, it was enjoyed with fine French wines & French champagnes to pair with the food.
Usually, the Huntingtons often started the meal off with Oysters on the half shell or Caviar on toast as a 1st course; serving the oysters with Amontillado Sherry. The soup course (Mushroom Soup or a light Consommé Royale) was next & could have been served with a white wine. A fish course (maybe a Crab Cake or Salmon Croquette with Lemon sauce) or Chicken Course (Capons of Chicken with Marsala Mushroom Sauce) was usually served with cold white wine (German Riesling sweet wine ) in Hock wine glasses.
Continuing the dinner entrée (filet mignon with Bernaise sauce or leg of Lamb) served with champagne or red wine & the game course (Pheasant or Duck a la orange) were usually served with red wine, often Burgundy or French Bordeaux. Sometimes, the main entrée was served with French Champagne. Sometimes, in the middle of grand Huntington dinner a Roman Punch was served.
Mrs. Arabella Huntington liked the French way of serving the Salad Course after the entrée. (Even though she was not alive (for the Royal Dinner on July 23,1926), they probably kept with her French sensibilities & traditions.
A French Cheese Course was served after the Salad Course. The French cheeses, “Fromage” could have had a variety of French cheeses, like Roquefort, Brie, Camembert, & Port Salut were Huntington favorites. Served with dried Fruit like dried Apricots & dried Cherries. Or plates of delicious ranch exotic fruits like sliced kiwis, papaya, & mangos with roasted nuts; paired with Port or Chardonnay white wine depending on the cheeses. The desserts of Glace or fancy-shaped Ice cream or pudding course and Fancy Cake Course might be served with a sweet dessert wine (German Riesling).
Wine Punch (Spiced) San Marino Ranch, CA
Mr. Hertrich tells a funny story about Wine Punch being made by Mr. H. E. Huntington. Mr. Hertrich was the key keeper & custodian of Mr. Huntington’s wine cellar(s) on the ranch. this was kind of unusual, Mr. Hertrich was the superintendent of the San Marino Ranch.
I found a letter from Mr. Wm. Hertrich sent to Mr. H. E. Huntington (in NYC). Mr. & Mrs. Huntington had left the San Marino Ranch to travel east by train to their Huntington Mansion in New York City. It was the tradition that in a Gilded Age household that the Head Butler was the keeper of the wine cellar keys. But McGillvary (Huntington’s Scottish Head Butler) & Alfonso Gomez (H. E. Huntington’s “Gentlemen Valet”; Alfonso was later the Huntington’s Head Butler): were also the Huntington’s traveling servants from residence to residence. They traveled all over the world with Mr. & Mrs. H. E. Huntington (Edwards & Belle) throughout the year. So it makes sense to have the “keeper of the wine cellar keys” be Mr. Wm. Hertrich, who lived on the San Marino Ranch year round.
Hertrich writes to Mr. H. E. Huntington in the letter: “I presume you were in the wine cellar a day or so before you left for New York, because I found several boxes opened & other misplaced on the shelves. At first, I thought someone broken in but found no evidence to that effect & later I remembered you were inquiring for some special wine for making punch, which I believe you wished to take to the California Club [Downtown Los Angeles]…. Mr. Huntington came forward & sheepishly confessed, ‘I was the quilty party who went into the wine cellar’. Book: Founding of the Huntington Library by James Thorpe
Spiced “Wine Punch” Recipe
2 c. orange juice
1 t. orange peel
12 whole cloves
1 qt. white wine or champagne
1 c. pineapple juice
1 t. Ranch honey (Orange blossom)
1/2 t. cinnamon or cinnamon sticks floating in punch
1/2 t. nutmeg
Mix all ingredients except wine & refrigerate for several hours. Strain into a large punch bowl. Just before the party starts add juices & cold champagne/wine to punch bowl. Add lots of ice or a ring of ice. Recipe: Nancy Armitage
Bibliography:
HEH Coll. MS 12/1-30 uncat (Chateau Beauregard papers) Huntington Library San Marino, CA
HEH Coll. MS 8/9 uncat [San Marino Ranch papers), groceries, bills, & invoices]Huntington Library San Marino, CA
HEH Coll HEH MS 11/6 (3) folder 3 [San Marino Ranch papers); Invoice from Mr. H. E. Huntington’s San Marino Ranch wine cellar list to Huntington Hotel, 1915] Huntington Library, San Marino, CA
HEH Coll. MS 38/11 uncat (New York House bills, 1919) Huntington Library, San Marino, CA
HEH Coll. HEH MS Box 198 (HEH menus & diagrams) Huntington Library San Marino, CA
Inside the Huntington's Story 