By Nancy Armitage
The Henry E. Huntington’s “Loggia” at the San Marino Ranch was a large romantic covered porch that served well for the Huntington’s “entertainments”. The Huntington’s ranch, called the “San Marino Ranch” was located in sunny Southern California.
It was the year 1919, Mr. H. E. “Edwards” & his wife, Arabella “Belle” Huntington were the residents of a elegant mansion on the property. The ranch was just south of Pasadena; 30 minutes from downtown Los Angeles. The effects of this Loggia with its cool terracotta tiles, elaborate Roman columns, & romantic figure statues was picturesque ; it would have made any guest feel like they were dining alfresco in Europe. The architect of the Huntington’s residence, Myron Hunt, also designed the North Vista & surrounding garden areas. The North Vista was inspired by elements of the French Queen Marie Antoinette’s “Grand Trianon” at Versailles in Paris.
The Loggia was surrounded by French gardens; they were reminiscent of Marie Antoinettes’s Versailles Palace in Paris France . On a summer afternoon, cool breezes infused with the scent of fragrant flowers, like jasmine & orange blossoms would float through the Loggia. The three-sided structure showcased the magnificent view of the Huntington’s three acres of smooth green lawns. The Huntington’s Loggia was surrounded by French white marble statues like Diana, the Huntress. There were six white marble statues of nude women; they graced the outer edges of the Loggia between the stately columns. Several marble head portraits (George Washington) on tall pedestals stood on each side of the mansion double doors.
The Huntington’s decorated the Loggia with plenty of chairs for their guests. For the guests to relax, they had two large Havana “peacock” wicker chairs, two wooden swings, & several elaborate cool marble benches. In the Victorian style, potted palms & flowering fragrant roses in large urn pots enhanced the surroundings. Mrs. Huntington adored pink roses & white roses, there was also evidence of multi-color roses, even in 1914. Also, two large engraved rectangle vessels from Italy. In the center of the Loggia, was a large marble table (colored: apricot & white veined), functioning as a buffet table, used for dining & afternoon teas dainties.
Though the Loggia was considered an outside room, it really was the east extension of the Mansion. Mr. Huntington also enjoyed using the Loggia in the afternoon, when he played cards with his neighbor & good friend & business partner, Mr. George Patton Sr. On top of the Loggia was a very large balcony, that housed Mrs. Huntington’s French Rooftop Garden.
The summer views from the loggia were incredible. Off in the distance to the east was the Huntington Family Fruit Orchards. The orchard hung heavy with summer fruits: juicy yellow gold peaches, purple Santa Rosa plums, & tasty nectarines. There were acres of bright oranges on orange trees (Valencia & Navel). The Huntington’s could see the majestic Mount Wilson (the San Gabriel Mountains) to the north. To the far east, Mount Baldy (usually covered with pure white snow in the wintertime) touched the bright blue California sky. To the south, Mr. Huntington owned – massive amount of land stretched through the San Gabriel Valley. It must have thrilled Mr. Huntington to look north from the Loggia & see his creation, the Huntington Library Building, built in the year 1919.
Mr. Hertrich, the head gardener, & “the Superintendent of the Ranch” of the San Marino Ranch; was in charge of flowers for Mrs. Huntington’s “entertainments”. He made sure that the Huntingtons’ Loggia & residence was supplied with huge bouquets of fresh fragrant flowers, daily. With the help of the Huntington’s household staff, each of their floral arrangements (each ablaze with 150-200 or more roses and flower blooms). Think the lobby of a fine hotel & the huge flower arrangements that grace the foyer.
The colorful summertime flowers would have been a brilliant rainbow of yellows, oranges, pinks, reds, or pinks, blues, & purples and white. The domestic staff of the Huntington’s would cut & trimmed the fragrant flowers from “Mrs. Huntington’s Flower-Garden” (where the Huntington Herb Garden is located now). Summer Flowers like Pink Roses, Tuberose, Hydrangeas, Evening Stock, Iris, & Oriental Lilies. With fragrant white Casa Blanca lilies & large Gardenia “Mystery” blossoms were used. The “Mystery” gardenia is the florist gardenia & is exceptional large and so very fragrant.
The Huntington’s glass hot houses & their extensive Rose Garden, provided the Loggia & the residence with numerous roses. Mrs. Arabella Huntington particularly liked pink & white roses. From the San Marino Ranch papers, hundreds of fragrant French roses: “Killarney” pink rose & “Killarney “white roses, & “Mademoiselle Cecile Brunner” pink roses were purchased for the ranch gardens. There were a multitude of rose blossoms & fragrant summer white gardenias would be artfully displayed on the Loggia marble table in decorative fancy vases. The scent of their fragrant roses would fill the late afternoon breeze to delight the Huntingtons’ guests.
A large music box located in the Huntington Coatroom, (the small room just off the Porte Cochere) provide background music for their “entertainments”. Sometimes, Mrs. Huntington sometimes hired a trio or quartet of professional musicians to serenade her guests. She liked violin & cello & opera, she also had a beautiful voice herself. Sometimes the Huntingtons asked HEH’s sister, Carrie Holladay or HEH’s daughter-in- law Mrs. Howard E. Huntington (Leslie) to play piano.
The usual time period for the Huntington’s to be “In-Residence” at the San Marino Ranch was from January to May. It was unusual that they were at the Ranch in the summertime. The reasons for the Huntingtons being at the Ranch in the summer of 1916 and 1919 are not quite clear. It probably was because World War II & also Mr. Huntington was building the Library Building (1919). During that year of 1919, he was busy shipping books (by train) from the Huntington New York mansion at No. 2 57th Street in New York City to San Marino Ranch in California.
One of the Huntington’s “entertainments” was recorded in the Los Angeles Examiner newspaper in l919. In August of that year, the Huntingtons entertained a Navy dignitary & his wife & a small group of guests on their Loggia.
In the local Los Angeles Examiner newspaper it was written: “When the Secretary of the Navy, Josephus Daniels & his wife, stopped briefly in Los Angeles on Monday, August 11, 1919, the Huntington’s gave a small luncheon tea for them. Edward [HEH] drove out with them from Los Angeles along with the Mayor [Mr. George Patton Sr.]. He [H. E. Huntington] first took the guests on a stroll through the gardens, & then showed them a selection of his choice books & manuscripts. Then, Belle [Arabella] presided over a tea in their honor. Served on the Loggia for a select group of guests.”
Connecting the dots of why Mr. H. E. Huntington would be entertaining the Secretary of the Navy goes back to the Huntington’s family business. Henry E. Huntington & Arabella inherited from Collis P. Huntington: the Newport News Shipbuilding & Drydock Company in Virginia; which was the largest shipbuilders in the United States. The American Navy ships were built there at Newport News, VA; sometimes the Huntington family were asked to christen the ships, documents are archived in HEH Collection at the Huntington Library in San Marino, California.
The Pacific Fleet (a new addition to the American fleet of ships) was sailing the Pacific coast & also to the Panama Canal; the Huntington family helped get the Panama Canal completed in 1915. Often, the Huntington family were invited for dinners & tours on newly built ships also the Admiral’s ship. So Josephus Daniel, Secretary of the Navy would be guiding the position of the fleet, especially during WWII.
On a hot August day with temperatures rising to over 100+degrees in sunny Southern California; guests would have welcomed iced sun tea. Sun Tea was made fresh from dried tea & hot water, and then brewed in the California sunshine. A popular drink made popular at the World’s Fair in 1904. For wealthy Americans, it was also a social tradition at the time to mix a special blend of loose tea together to make an exquisite taste to impress their guests.
Orange Pekoe was Mrs. Huntington’s favorite tea, which was her special blend mixture of India tea & Ceylon tea. Tall glasses of Iced Tea with a sprig of mint and orange slice served with long iced tea silver spoon, served on a dainty doily lined tea saucer. A refreshing drink on a hot summer afternoon & was the rage in 1900’s; maybe Mint Juleps were served , also.
From the Huntington mansion’s grocery lists, invoices & receipts, they illustrate what the Huntingtons might have served as refreshments. For a tea luncheon, other cold beverages could have been offered like Ranch Lemonade or Orangeade, & Mr. Huntington’s favorite, Ginger Ale. The Huntington cooks also made their own, Homemade Root Beer in the Huntington kitchen at the ranch. Root beer made with a syrup of roots, herbs and spices. It had sassafras root, & licorice root, wintergreen herb leaves, with spices of allspice, anise, & ground cinnamon, vanilla extract, water, granulated sugar, & carbonated water.
A festive sparkling Garden Party Punch (champagne punch) would have been made by the butler. The Huntington’s butler, Alfonzo would normally make this punch (as one of the Head Butler’s jobs). But Mr. Hertrich, the superintendent of the Ranch, was in charge of the keys to the wine cellar, if it had champagne or rum in it. Alfonso stated that the Huntington’s household staff (16-20 employees) got along really well & helped each other out when the Huntington’s were entertaining.
Garden Party Fruit Punch (1912)
This refreshing sparkling orangeade, could become a Champagne Punch just by adding Champagne. The original recipe came from a rare book: The Book of Parties & Pastimes, by Dawson & Telford, 1912, but the author didn’t give amounts or directions.
2 c. strawberries, sliced
10 oranges, squeezed
2 can pineapple, crushed
2 qt. carbonated or mineral water [or ginger ale]
Cut up the fruit squeeze the juices from some of the fruit for flavor. Refrigerate. About 15 minutes before the Party, add to a large punch bowl, add fruit & iced cold carbonated water [or ginger ale]. Add lots of ice or make a Ice Ring with orange slices. Slice a couple of oranges & float on top of punch. Recipe: Nancy Armitage Historical Note: The Huntingtons always had huge amounts of carbonated water available. Especially mineral water under the labels of Apollinaris, Poland, & Spring waters. The Huntingtons had all the punch ingredients right on the Ranch: oranges, berries, & fresh exotic pineapple growing in the Lath House. The fruit could be sliced up or berries frozen whole (like ice cubes); then at the beginning of the party floating them in the punch.
For tea receptions or garden parties such as this one: The Huntington’s favored Caviar, & Roquefort Canapés passed on a doily-lined silver tray, or maybe they served Deviled Eggs.
An array of tea sandwiches was displayed on large doily-lined Gorham or Sheffield silver platters. Petit tea sandwiches probably were Chopped Ham Salad, & old-fashioned Chicken Salad, popular with the Huntingtons. Other sandwiches enhanced with the San Marino Ranch bounty of olives & nuts with Cream Cheese on freshly baked breads, like Cheese bread or Walnut Bread. Maybe hearty meat sandwich for the men, like Roast Beef or a Bookmaker’s Sandwiches (like a toasted steak sandwich, thinnly sliced pieces of steak or Roast Beef with Horseradish & Dijon mustard with arugula leaves) on a French Baguette.
In the cookbook called, Seven Hundred Sandwiches (1928) it has a recipe for a “Tutti-Fruitti Sandwich” which was a sweet nut & fruit tea sandwich. It had walnuts, figs, dates, & raisins, moisten with orange juice, a pinch of sugar (actually the recipe had 1/4 c. sugar, oh my!), & whipped cream [or clotted cream.] Spread this mixture on buttered sliced bread. Maybe in the Victorian times, this sandwich was for the children in their nursery. A hundred years later, in 2020, their is a different version of this very sweet sandwich to a more savory tea sandwich. We see in America, a “Nut & dried fruit tea sandwich”, made of minced pecan or walnuts with dried chopped apricots moisten with clotted cream or cream cheese spread on thin slices of bread.
Or a cocktail savory version we (my family) call “Ready-Mix Spread”, because we always have the ingredients. It has equal parts of minced walnuts or pecans, minced black olives, minced green chilis (Ortega), & grated cheddar cheese/ Monterey Jack cheese or goat cheese. Then bind together with a thick version of sour cream/ mayonnaise/or cream cheese. This was is great for cocktails or passed appetizers, too. It can be served cold with crackers. Or served hot: just spread mixture on bread (1 1/2″ round coin size), place on a cookie sheet. Cook for 425 for 15 minutes until cheese is melted & the bottom of the bread is toasted. Serve on a doily-lined silver tray. Recipe: Nancy Armitage Did the Huntingtons have passed hors d’oeuvres or canapes at their elegant tea parties, I’m not sure, but it is highly likely. Mrs. Huntington was partial to Roquefort Cheese Puffs & other canapes served by her staff.
Salads representing the multi-colors of the fruit at the Ranch: like fresh Ambrosia Fruit Salad & New York Waldorf salad made of Green Grapes, Red Apple, Mayonnaise, & Brown Walnuts. The fruits from the Huntington ‘s abundant orchard & Lath House, enhanced the Tropical Fruit Salad, made with exotic Crenshaw Melons, Champagne Grapes, Pineapple, Mangoes, & exotic New Zealand Kiwi fruit. Or a Fruit Compote (Stewed fruit with Orange Marmalade was infused with Sherry, Curacao, or Brandied Peaches), took on the deep radiance of jewel tones. Also, Summer Potato Salad with French Tarragon & Ranch ColeSlaw were sometimes served, also.
Summer Ambrosia Salad
4 Ranch oranges (Navel or Valencia), chop
4 peaches, chop
1 Honeydew melon, chop
4 nectarines, chop
20 Ranch green “Mission” grapes, whole
20 Ranch red grapes. whole
1 bag small marshmallows
2 kiwi fruit, sliced [Exotic fruit in Mr. Huntington’s Lath House]
4 c. heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
Spearmint or French tarragon leaves, minced
Peel & cut the oranges, cut all the fruit into cubes. Place fruit in a large cut glass serving bowl or punch bowl. Let juices drain & discard. Before the party, beat the whipped cream until soft peaks & fold into fruit mixture. Decorate the top of ambrosia salad with sliced bright green kiwi fruit & sprinkle some spearmint or French tarragon. Recipe: Nancy Armitage
The sweet smell of desserts could have filled the air of the Loggia: Southern Bourbon Balls, Rum Cakes, & moist Teacakes. “Gateaux la ‘Orange” a French orange cake drizzled with Curacao served at the Hotel Huntington, (I found on a 1924 luncheon tea menu). This cake would have showcased Mr. Huntington’s ranch oranges. Dainty French Petit Fours (delicious iced square cakes) & Bonbons (Chocolate Truffles) & Mrs. Kley’s Huntington Mansion “Honey Spice Bars” would have completed the tea display. Displayed on doily-lined cake plates & decorated with fresh herbs, flowers, or petit roses like “Cecile Brunner” pink. For they were entertaining dignitaries for tea, it had to be the most elegant.
I was so excited when I received this recipe! It is a Huntington recipe that was actually made in the Huntington Mansion at the San Marino Ranch! The Huntington’s dessert chef, Mrs. Lena Kley used to work for the Huntingtons (as a dessert cook)at Christmas time or when they were entertaining. Mrs. Kley’s husband, Paul, also worked on the Ranch, he was a very skilled carpenter. Mrs. Kley concocted this rich decadent treat. Mrs. Kley’s granddaughter, Chris Story, was kind enough to share the recipe with me. These delicious treats are so rich, that one should cut them into a smallest of brownie size squares! They taste between a rich chocolate truffle & a chocolate brownie.
Huntington Mansion “Honey Spice Bars” with Royal Icing
2 c. walnuts, chopped
1 pt. honey, [orange blossom honey]
2 t. cinnamon
2 t. allspice
6 eggs [2 are for the icing]
½ lb. (2 c.) ground cocoa
1c. sugar
2 t. cloves [ground]
2 t. nutmeg
5 c. flour
6 t. baking powder
Mix the honey, cocoa, & sugar first. Pour in beaten eggs. Add flour, spices & baking powder. Grease pan & bake in slow oven [Bake 300 F for 38 mins. Let cool & drizzle Royal Icing on top.]
Royal Icing
1 box powdered sugar
2 egg whites (above eggs)
Mix powdered sugar into the 2 egg whites to make a white icing to drizzle on top of [Honey Spice Bars] after they are baked.
Note from Chris: All these years & I still don’t know how long to bake them! They can become too dry if they are overcooked. Nancy Note: Mix all the dry ingredients first, then the walnuts. Add the eggs & honey, & mix well. Pat dough down in (2) 7 1/2” X 11 “ glass pyrex dish. Cook in a pyrex dish at 300F. for 38 mins. Take out of the oven & let them sit. When cooled, ice the bars with Royal Icing in the pan. Cut into small 1 “ squares. They were really rich and moist, across between a truffle & a brownie.
The moist “Honey Spice Bars” tasted like a combination of rich chocolate brownies & moist chocolate truffles. Mrs. Kley also baked Oatmeal Cookies, Peanut Butter Cookies, & Cinnamon Star swirl Cookies. The petit Tea Tarts were all handmade from San Marino Ranch fresh fruit, berries, & nuts both of which grew in profusion in the ranch orchards & berry patch. Mrs. Huntington in a pinch would also purchase fine bakery goods from local gourmet markets. Petit French Tarts (small individual 4″ wide) could have been made with Apricots or Lemon or juicy Peaches. Bowl of juicy Ranch Berries (Fresh Loganberries, Raspberries & Strawberries) were enjoyed with French Chantilly Cream. A tasty nutty treat could have been Pecan Pies or Petit Pecan Tarts.
Bushels of apples were shipped to the Huntington mansion kitchen from back east. The head cook & housekeeper, Nora Larsen, could have made a variety of sweet desserts for the Huntingtons & their guests. But an American favorite, Apple Pie or Apple Turnovers or small Individual Apple Tarts, could have also completed the menu. Served with chilled homemade Vanilla Ice Cream with orange zest & drizzle of orange Curacao ( Mr. Huntington’s favorite).
Bibliography:
HEH Coll. 8/9 MS uncat (Rose names from San Marino Papers; Food receipts & grocery lists; gourmet grocery Jeuve; pantry food ingredients; homemade Root beer ingredients; Receipt with Curacao; 150 – 200 flower arrangements, berries, fruit SMR Trees; invoices with numerous pink & white roses ordered
HEH Coll. 38/6 MS uncat (ADH estate papers; Mrs. Leslie Huntington’s affidavit, ADH hire musicians for entertainments)
HEH Coll. 37/1-18 MS uncat (ADH Surrogate Court property papers)
HEH Coll MS 38/6 uncat (HEH estate papers the from the Huntington mansion brown inventory book/list; Mrs. Huntington’s numerous fine china plates; music box in the coat room, San Marino Ranch)
HEH Coll. MS 10968 (Burke’s Journals document many days (Entertainments and teaparties) of the Huntington’s)
HEH Coll. MS 19/1-18 uncat (Alfonso Gomez, the butler interviews)
HEH and Patton, card players from butler, Alfonso Gomez interviews
HEH Coll. Menu Ephemera Eph 40- uncat (Huntington menu ephemera)(Petit fours & bonbons are on 90% of Huntington banquet menus)
HEH Coll. MS 38/11 (1919 NYC No.2 Mansion receipts: catered teaparty with chicken salad, ham salad, & beef tea sandwiches, & teacakes, raisin cake and chocolate cake
Sent by mail: Recipe from Mrs. Kley’s (granddaughter Chris Story gave it to me) of the Huntington’s San Marino Ranch dessert cook, Mrs. Kley (Huntington Mansion “Honey Spice Bars”)
Newspaper L A Examiner: after August 11, 1919 article of (Secretary of Navy with the Huntington visit)
Book: Botanical Gardens by William Hertrich (Photo of Loggia, pink & white roses decorated most of the rose gardens)
Mrs. Huntington also entertained using Red “American Beauty” Red Article: San Francisco Call Newspaper (1892) “The Huntington Dinner” & New York Times
HEH Coll. Photo black & white circa 1930 photo of the marble statue of Diana, the huntress located on the Huntingtons loggia. Mr. H.E. Huntington died in 1927. www.huntington.org.com
Hotel Huntington 10th Anniversary menu (1914-1924) “Gateaux a l’Orange: (Orange Cake) was on the menu. Document: Ephemera folder of Special Collections at Pasadena Museum of History, Pasadena.
Inside the Huntington's Story 